The jewellery empire Adler

With kind cooperation from Pelin Aksenkal, we had the pleasure of an interview with Monsieur Franklin Adler. We hope you enjoy it as much as we did.The brand story starts in Istanbul in 1886. After 1972, the journey resumes its track in Geneva as a Suisse company. Could you talk us through it?
My grandfather, Jacques Adler, visited İstanbul in 1886.On his journey from Vienna to America, he stopped over in İstanbul and got captivated by this magical city.That was when he decided to settle in it.The city became his new world, as inspiring as his city of birth. At the crossroads of  East and West, the city guided him in his creations.The first sales point opened in an arcade in Tünel. The pieces designed were pretty radical, challenging the perspective of the era. Putting behind carat pieces, precious stones signal grace with a new aesthetic look. And this is what constitutes the differentiation factor for Adler designs, the technical approach. Jacques Adler became very popular among women and a second shop opened in Taksim with a team of five artisans.The second generation took over when my father Edouard stepped in. In 1955,Adler opened its third shop in the most luxurious hotel in town, the Hilton. I believe my grandfather’s dreams to gain recognition in Europe and America were realised when we stepped in with my brother. I was convinced that the brand had to move forward towards new horizons. The merging point for art and commerce, the face of new Europe was Geneva. In 1972,we left Istanbul and opened a store in Geneva. We travelled all over the world. Today we have shops throughout the world; in London, Abu Dabi, Tokyo, Gstaad, Moscow, Hong Kong.The starting point of the journey was Istanbul. What were the benefits?
The cross roads of East and West. A treasure for culture. We always sought after  harmony of the contrasts. It is possible to design different collections letting them both inspire you. If you are open to different cultures and trends, you can find inspiration in almost anything.

Adler is still run as a family business with Allen Adler representing the fourth generation. You are one of the few design houses who has been able to accompliish this. How have you succeeded?
It is a challenge to work with family members. This is something we all need to accept.It is only achievable if all agree to sacrifice to a certain degree. Each newcomer can contribute with a new aspect, but to embrace this is not easy.It is known that Franklin and Carlo Adler select the gems that they will work with. And a large part of the collection is designed in your ateliers. Is this the secret of your success?
Partially yes! To choose the gems personally is a great advantage. We define the quality and beauty. We choose what is beautiful to us. And we hope that what is beautiful for us is also appreciated by others. Picking a gem is the starting point. The next step is to choose the most beautiful design. You have to know whether the gem being modeled best suits a ring, an earring or a necklace design. And then to come up with a unique model. Otherwise you can not claim originality. Design not only has to be new, but also beautiful and different. Beauty appeals to the sense of vision. I believe our eyes sense and select beauty. This is a real gift.

Could you tell us about Leyla Adler’s contribution to the brand?
Men and women have different perspectives. Men tend to be more geometrical. That is why they are better in math. They prefer more simple and straight lines. Women are more willing to take a risk, they are braver. Practicality is also an important aspect. In our era, women lead active lifestyles. They prefer pieces that they can put on easily and feel comfortable with. Attending a dinner party after office hours, they want to walk in wearing daily jewellery,with no need for touch ups. Men concentrate on value and emphasize it. They have a different mind set. When it comes to creativity, women have a tendecy to think alike.Is jewellery a fashion item? How does fashion shape designs? Any advice for those who want to own a new piece?
Jewellery is not a fashion item. The desire to wear it dates back to the origins of mankind. Early dwellers wore the tooth of a lion as a piece of ornament. The style evolved with time. Jewellery compliments a woman, enhances her personality and encourages her to say, ‘this is what I like and that is why I can be different’. A lot has changed in the realm of advertising. With subliminal applications,women are being brainwashed. For those whose tastes still have not matured, they are more susceptible to such messages. It is always safe to prefer branded goods, the possibility of a wrong choice is pretty low. What really matters is self-confidence. There are brands who try to capitalize on this weakness. I strongly advise women to listen to the choice of their hearts, to buy jewellery without following fashion trends. Jewellery is all about passion.

Adler does not have a shop in Istanbul. Where can we find your designs?
We have shops in Geneva, London, Moscow, Abu Dabi, Hong Kong and Tokyo. Our Turkish clients love to travel and I am sure they will visit us in one of these locations. They are pretty sure about what they want.Adler’s unique approach are the designs shaped with different gems. Could you tell us about  your collection for 2010?
Our designs always reflect a synthesis of East and West. We make our selection by reviewing many different models designed, and decide on one unique piece. Our jewellery is a representation of emotions and sentiments. A collection has many values not merely measured by the worth of the individual gem. Design is equally as important as the gem and  this defines the price.

You display Art-Deco pieces in your shop in London. How do you select these? Are there such pieces in other locations?
As the Adler family, we have always nurtured a passion for the era. It represents the most glamorous, the most creative period of jewellery design. Extremely well sketched, extraordinarily well-proportioned, very feminine, very graceful and emotional designs. This period is a source of inspiration for the whole family.Most jewellery houses manufacture watches. Is this a choice for you?
We did manufacture watches, but those were mostly custom made designs. Designing watches is a totally different field of know-how and expertise. What matters to us is to excel in what we do. We are perfectionists and therefore do not engage in it.

What does the future hold?
I want to keep on designing unique pieces. Today’s world of communication enables us to get information and lots of opportunities for self-development. I hope that real jewellery will be differentiated from the rest. Money is a good educator. Initial purchases can be top of mind choices, but with time you learn to pay more attention. There comes a time when your choices get narrowed down. You  search for different pieces, what is standard no longer appeals. The eye discerns and with that taste matures.

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